Women of the Island: A free and natural way of life on Cork's Cape Clear

You might be forgiven if you think you have arrived in heaven when you wake up to the breathtaking views of South Harbour on Cape Clear, which can be seen from Chléire Haven, Ireland’s first Glamping experience run by Lyndy Davies and her partner Finbar.

This is a place where you can sense the mighty power of the Atlantic Ocean on the three miles long by one-mile-wide island eight miles off the south-west coast.

There is the constant sound of the waves sometimes gently kissing, sometimes strongly beating the island shoreline. The cliffs are festooned with gorse, heather and wild flowers, some of which are unique to Cape Clear due to the influence of the Gulf Stream on its climate.

There are little stone walls zigzagging through the patchwork of fields above the dazzling harbour in this unique landscape.

Looking after this gorgeous campsite is a labour of love for Lyndy, and she its that living in such a beautiful location and constantly meeting happy holidaymakers means that running her business does not really feel like work.

“I really enjoy living here, there is something different to be seen in the landscape every single day, we recently saw some basking sharks swimming into the harbour, it was incredible,” she said.

Lyndy hails from Oban in Scotland, which is within easy reach of several Scottish islands, including the island of Kerrera and the Isle of Mull, but she says that when she lived there, she never really frequented the islands that often.

She would never have imagined that one day she would make an island her permanent home, but little did she know how her future would unfold.

“I always used to say I’d hate to live on an island, and look at me now,” she laughed.

It was her mother Sally who first moved to Cape Clear and started the campsite and glamping experience in 2009, along with her partner Dave, who had fallen in love with the island on a previous visit.

Theirs was the first glamping experience in the country with yurt accommodation, which since then has become a hugely popular choice all around the country, and on Cape Clear you can choose from several yurts as well as the bell tents which are on offer.

When Sally retired from the business, Lyndy, who had been visiting her mother on and off over the summers, took it over, and now has lived there full time for over 14 years, and does not see herself anywhere else, she is very happy with island life.

Tourism is one of the main sources of income for many of the islanders, and the season is a short one. Lyndy starts preparations at the campsite around March for the opening in April, and closes up again for the season around October.

She enjoys ‘tipping away’ she says, picking up the guests at the pier after their 45-minute ferry trip over to the island, and then driving them the short distance over to the campsite to show them their lodgings.

Cleaning and maintaining the yurts, which are Mongolian tents made from natural fibres and timber complete with log stoves, is all part of her daily routine.

Lyndy also oversees looking after the spacious canvas bell tents which are also available, as well as maintaining the facilities for all the campers including those who choose to bring their own tents.

Organising the recycling, and sorting through the email bookings takes up another portion of the day to day running of the campsite, but Lyndy takes it all in her stride.

The secret to a happy work life balance is ‘Love what you do’, and Lyndy is very contented with her lifestyle.

“It’s great to see the enjoyment that people get from camping on the island. It’s particularly heartwarming to see the pleasure that the kids have enjoying the freedom which the island affords, or playing in the sandpit here on site.

“As the shop is quite close, they are often allowed to walk over there by themselves, which is a great treat for them, as there are no traffic worries. We also accommodate people with tiny children, and there are travel cots available if required.

“The wifi is sporadic to none, so the kids realise that being constantly on their devices is not an option, and after getting over the initial shock, they soon seem to settle into their time exploring the island in the fresh air, having fun swimming and kayaking or rambling around visiting the goat farm or spotting seals.

It’s a short enough season, so the summertime is really busy for myself and most of the other islanders, and then in the winter we have more time to socialise with one another.

“When the summer is over, I enjoy going around visiting my friends, we have dinner parties and play cards together, and take it in turns to go and visit each other.

“There are also music sessions in the pubs, and other activities and clubs such as pottery, knitting or exercise classes which help the winter days here.”

The Cape Clear Storytelling festival is one of the highlights of the year, and this year it’s on from August 30 to September 1.

“It’s always a fantastic festival bringing a great buzz around the place with storytellers from Ireland and abroad,” said Lyndy.

“I really enjoy the way of life here, and not having to rush around all the time. I love the scenery, and the outdoor life, and, although I take plenty of walks, there are still some places left to explore that I haven’t seen yet, even after 14 years of living on the island.

There’s nothing I really miss about life on the mainland.

“When I lived in Oban, I would not dream of going to the shop without wearing make-up and having my hair perfect, and here, I don’t bother so much, and it feels very liberating. It’s a more free and natural way of life for me, and I’ve really embraced that.”

Every single item that is necessary for living on the island has to be transported across the eight mile stretch of water by ferry. This includes building materials, farm animals, shopping, and of course the post.

One unlikely recipient of the island postal service, up until recently, was a resident of the island whose charm and demeanour have stolen many a heart of visitors to Chléire Haven camp site, so much so that they have written to him afterwards.

“Dear Milo, Miss you so so so much. I will see you soon. Have a good year,” was the message written on a postcard and sent to Milo the Dog, Chléire Haven, Cape Clear, Co. Cork, by one young fan.

Lyndy had two dogs, Milo and Una, and, according to her, Milo was definitely the star of the show. Sadly, Milo ed away a few weeks ago.

“Milo has had Christmas cards sent to him. The kids who visit the camp site just adore him,” said Lyndy.