Gardening: Jurassic park in Kerry well worth a visit

Most of us are familiar with Jurassic Park - now imagine there would be a place like that in real life.

Fortunately, in Ireland, there’s a garden for every taste and some very special places scattered across the country. One of those not too far from Cork is Kells Bay Gardens in Cappamore, Co. Kerry.

Situated on a north-west facing slope with Delligeenagh River running through the estate and plenty of rainfall every year, it is the perfect spot for shade- and moisture-loving plants.

While enjoying the dry spell (that lasted for three weeks here) and still hoping for the next rain, I got the chance to visit this impressive place overlooking Dingle Bay, the ocean shining like a blue jewel that day.

Early development in the gardens reaches as far back as the 1870s, for example the lady’s walled garden. A first collection of exotic plants took place during Rowland Ponsonby Blennerhassett’s time (1850-1913), and the most recent developments from 2006 onwards are the work of the current owner and plant-hunter, Billy Alexander.

On driving or walking in, a stunning waterfall over a cliff sets the scene for what to expect here in general. Bright yellow Bulley’s Primroses frame the picture. The colour yellow is quite prevalent in this part of the country, with Iris pseudacorus happily growing in damp, shady places.

Stepping out of the car into the car park, the scene changes drastically. A rock garden has been set up here, in front of and around the terrace of the adjacent restaurant, with a magnificent view down towards Dingle Bay. It is the only area of the garden that is open to the west and a bit to the south, allowing the afternoon and evening sun to shine on the rocks.

Perennial Dierama, palm-like Cordyline (technically an evergreen shrub) and palms like Trachycarpus thrive here. Sitting on the terrace with a coffee and piece of cake on a warm day, it is hard to believe that we’re not in the Mediterranean.

Entering the garden now, we’re immediately surrounded by mature woodland - oaks and pines being quite prevalent. Fallen trees over the river complete the natural setting of the garden.

The native and the exotic come together in Kells Bay, the most eye-catching feature being its tree ferns, Dicksonia Antarctica. They make the whole garden feel like a Jurassic wonderland.

Some specimens are easily reaching two metres high and can be ired in the Primeval Forest, but the tree ferns in this garden are not confined to one area. With their majestic fronds, opening and stretching at this time of the year, they are dotted all along the river, next to paths or framing the waterfalls.

The occasional dinosaur, as well as it’s foot or claw, carefully placed throughout the garden, doesn’t feel a bit out of place here.

All the sculptures are carved out of trees fallen in storms and greatly add to the space. Who wouldn’t want to sit on a comfortable wooden chair surrounded by lush greens and contemplate whatever comes to mind, while hearing a stream of water in the distance?

One of the main features of this garden, if not the main feature, is the rope bridge. Connecting two cliffs and stretching across the river, it is not for the faint-hearted.

The bridge measures 3ft high and 120ft long and was opened in 2017, Ireland’s longest rope bridge to this day.

Fabulous views over the river are to be ired during the crossing, but you want to hold your camera or phone extra tight while taking pictures!

It is easy to get lost in this garden, and there’s many a treasure to be found. Along the cliff walk, a view opens to Knocknadobar Mountain, majestic and bright today in the sunlight. The contrast to the shady, sheltered garden I just stepped out of couldn’t be bigger.

Following along the trails, past dinosaur sculptures, tree ferns and cliffs, one eventually comes down to the waterfall walk, another adventurous path to discover. It follows a stream, past multiple waterfalls.

This trail is a must-do for anyone with children or anyone who wants to feel like a child again.

There are so many rare and fantastic plants in Kells Bay that it would take more than this article to describe them. Plants-person and family likewise will all find endless joys here.

It does feel a bit otherworldly strolling through the place after weeks of consistent sun. Where other gardens shine and wake up when the sun is out, here everything seems to doze while preserving energy and waiting for the rain.

I’ll be back on a wet day and enjoy this green oasis of plants again.

Plant of the Week

There’s only one choice for this week’s plant profile, the tree fern Dicksonia antarctica, estimated to have originated in the early Jurassic period.

Native to eastern Australia, it can grow to 15 metres in height and two metres in width in nature, around Ireland you will usually see much smaller specimens.

The name derives from its tree-like appearance, with the rhizome forming the trunk and the leaves, called fronds, coming out at the top.

It grows in partial or full shade, on different types of soil, but always in moist conditions. A sheltered woodland spot suits it well.

It is hardy to about -5C, but protection is needed for the trunk in prolonged or severe cold spells.

As a slow growing and evergreen plant, it can be a great feature for an exotic or woodland garden.